Costa Rica in two weeks

Costa Rica is as amazingly beautiful as everyone says.  The problem is that Costa Rica is more expensive than the rest of Central Amercia.  In fact, it is about the same price as the States for park entrance fees, tourist traps and food.  Fortunately for me, I was mentally prepared for the hike in prices (about double of Nicaragua) and it didn't come as a shock.

I crossed the border alone...sort of.  I started alone and met a Canadian guy at the border crossing.  We were both headed to Liberia (a common jumping off point in NW Costa Rica for people trying to get to the Nicoya Penninsula).  I got to Liberia with perfect timing.  I mean perfect.  I hopped off one bus and there was one waiting for Tamarindo.  I was surprised because I actually thought I would have to spend the night in Liberia.  Frankly, I was a little nervous to hop on a bus that would drop me off after dark, but everyone assured me that Tamarindo is really safe and I shouldn't have any problems.  Good thing they were right!  I met a couple on the bus and we set out together in search of a hostel in Tamarindo.

Tamarindo is VERY commercialized.  It's a surfer town, to be sure, but it feels like America invaded the little slice of heaven that would be Tamarindo.  Don't get me wrong, the town is delightful, but I wasn't prepared for how built up it is.  After living in the Nicaraguan jungle for nearly a month, it was somewhat surprising to be back in the middle of tourist traps, shops, every variety of restaurant and plentiful surfer establishments.  I found it both nice and sad.  Sad that my first impression of Costa Rica was a tourist trap, but nice that at least I had the amenities I needed.

The beaches surrounding Tamarindo (Playa Avellanas, Playa Grande, etc.) are beautiful.  There are full of surfers and beach goers just about any time of day.  I was no exception.  I basked in the glorious rays of the sun for the first time in nearly a month and enjoyed every second of it.  I tried surfing.  Tried.  I can honestly say that I didn't try as hard as I wish I had, but it was still fun!  I will try again at some point in my adventures.  I met some amazing people to hang out with for the week I was there.

After Tamarindo, I made my way to Monteverde/Santa Elena, which is in north central Costa Rica.  It's in the mountains.  Way up in the mountains.  It's much colder there and windy.  The continental divide runs right through the area, separating the rainy forests from the dry forests.  So cool!  I went hiking through the Monteverde Cloud Forest one day.  My friend (who came through the treehouse a month earlier and whom I re-met on the way to Monteverde) and I opted to skip the extra cost ($17 per person) of getting a guide.  It was probably a dumb idea to save the money, because we saw virtually nothing on the hike whereas other people usually see plenty of wildlife.  Oh well; no matter.  We had a delightful morning hike anyway.  We also went to a butterfly garden (worth every penny of the $15 fee) and an orchid garden (also worth the money).  We had coffee with ome white-faced monkeys at a cafe in Santa Elena (the monkey were free).  The best part of the Monteverde stop?  Zip-lining!  Holy crap that was an adrenaline rush!  We had many zip lines, a tarzan swing and a zip line where we flew through the air like Superman!  I'd do that again in a heartbeat!

After Monteverde, I went to San Jose (the capital city) for a night.  Most importantly (wink, wink), I was able to watch my Atlanta Falcons beat the Seattle Seahawks in the NFL playoff game.  I ran into the couple I met on the bus to Tamarindo and met a new girl from Finland.  We were all headed to Puerto Viejo within the next day or two.  I ultimately traveled to Puerto Viejo by myself, but...shocking...met more people along the way.

Puerto Viejo is on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.  It has a decidedly different vibe from the Pacific side.  It's hard to describe, but you can feel the difference.  Maybe it's the music.  Maybe it's the sound of the waves lapping the shore not more than 30 feet from the vendors.  Maybe it's the plethora of bicycles used by everyone to get around the area.  I can't put my finger on it, but it's definitely different.

The first full day in Puerto Viejo I joined some new friends on a 13 km bike ride (each way) to Manzanillo, another coastal town.  The ride was beautiful!  Most of it was along a road running parallel to the coastline and the turquoise waters were visible through the palm trees and other tropical plants.  We stopped to enjoy the beach at Punta Uva about halfway to Manzanillo  Ahhhhh!  Bliss!

I also went to the Jaguar Rescue Center.  It's an animal rescue center in Playa Castillos.  They didn't have any jaguars when I visited, but they had lots of other animals.  I saw my first sloths there, lots of birds and got to play with some howler monkeys and some spider monkeys.  By the way, in case you're wondering, spider monkeys are really playful and will try to pull off anything from your clothes (like buttons) and jewelry.  Worth the $15 entrance fee for sure!

The rest of the time, I just chilled out with some people from my hostel, went for more bike rides in the area and enjoyed life.  Can't get much better than that!  I would've liked to find some time to write, but that will come.  I can't rush it.  I'm now in Bocas del Toro, Panama.  I will have to update you later on that!

Nicaragua for almost two months!

When I arrived in Nicaragua, I never expected to stay as long as I did.  It would be an understatement, and a serious disservice to Nicaragua, to say that the place is just good.  Rather, I found the Nicaraguan people to be charming, helpful and friendly, and the country itself is enchanting.  When I left Popoyo, I was a bit disillusioned and ready to move on.  I guess I just hadn't yet found the right place to be.

I went to Granada, Nicaragua, after Popoyo.  I expected very little.  I had heard that the place was like a crappy version of Antigua, Guatemala.  Not true!  I think Granada has a completely different sort of charm.  True, it's a colonial city, but that's where the similarities end.  Granada's market is always teeming with people and wares.  The colors come alive in the stalls and in the smiles of those working the stalls.  They are eager to show you what they've got for sale, particularly if it's handmade or unique.  There were people who sold fresh meats, fresh vegetables and fruit, handcrafted tunics and scarves, run-of-the-mill clothes, CDs, bicycle wheels and tires, electronics and hair products.  Strangely, I got the sense that they really enjoyed making their livings in the market.  In fact, some of the vendors left me with a sense that they are just one big family.  Walking through the market is a unique experience, full of sounds and smells that only a market can bring.

The Parque Central in the center of town, like many other Central American cities, ties the place together in a grid of streets fanning out from the bustle of cab drivers, horse-drawn carriages, roadside foods, churches, bars, restaurants and cafes.  I toured most of the churches in Granada and they are all beautiful, but the huge yellow church running along one side of the Parque is impossible to resist, with it's golden yellow facade, white trim, and large entrance casting grandiose shadows over the Parque.  It's interior is light blue and beautifully adorned with artifacts and paintings.  Another church nearby houses a museum boasting sculptures found in the area that date back to 300 A.D.  Yet another church has a spectacular bell tower from which to watch the sun set over the surrounding hillsides and mountains.

Eventually, I decided to hunker down and take some more Spanish lessons.  I stayed with a local family who were just lovely and gracious.  Sadly, the son of the owner had spent considerable time in America and wanted to practice his English, so my "immersion" experience wasn't quite as high as I would've hoped.  Nonetheless, it was a great school and I learned quite a bit.

After Granada, I headed to Treehouse Poste Rojo, a treehouse hostel in the jungle about 10 km outside Granada.  I intended to stay for two weeks, but that quickly turned into nearly a month.  I worked there (I volunteered in exchange for a place to stay and discounted meals).  It was good down time and I indulged my creative side by painting signs and "decorating" the place with odd art.  I generally checked people in and out of their stays, served food and drinks, and got to meet lots of amazing people.  The treehouse is actually several buildings built into the Nicaraguan jungle: a treehouse room available for renting, a couple casitas (small houses) available for rent, a dorm building that also has private rooms, a bar and communal area and the volunteer house.  The toilets were compost toilets in little shacks.  The showers -- cold water only -- were outside with fencing around them to shield bathers from prying eyes.  The critters were amazing and unique.  I swear that I think I'm over my previous fear of spiders; I kinda had to since I went to sleep with them in my room almost every night.  The howler monkeys in the surrounding jungle came to our trees for food and sometimes woke me up in the morning with their loud howling that made me think that there were gorillas nearby, not the relatively small howler monkeys.  The sunsets were always amazing and I watched every one of them.

I know without hesitation that some of the friendships I made at the treehouse will be lifetime friendships!  I also got some time to write and work on my book, which was a nice treat in the middle of all my travels (it's hard to find time to write when I'm always on the go).  We had an amazing Christmas Eve celebration, complete with fireworks and a Hello Kitty pinata (LOL).  We also had a family Christmas dinner with turkey and all the fixings.  So good!  On the 28th of December, the treehouse hosted a full moon party -- a pajama party.  Good times!  I decided to stay for New Years and rang in the New Year with some of my new treehouse family and our guests.  It was nice to at least celebrate with some people with whom I'd shared the last couple of weeks.  :)

I left the treehouse on January 2nd, headed for Costa Rica.  The border crossing was (thankfully) uneventful and easy.  I managed to make it all the way to Tamarindo in about six hours of bus rides. I met some fellow travelers on the bus and found a decent, nondescript hostel.   The next day I found the Fiesta Bowl showing at a local bar/restaurant and sat down to cheer on my Ducks!  Yay!  Win and a good game!  During the game, I met some Americans vacationing down here who have been absolutely amazing and are teaching me to surf and letting me stay in their huge rental house.  It's been a little slice of heaven: hot showers for the first time in months, no tarantulas or other odd creatures, WiFi and some good old-fashioned relaxation time at the beach.  I am very thankful and feel very blessed.  I will move on from Tamarindo on Wednesday or so...I have my sights set on Monteverde and Santa Elena, but I may check out other areas of the Pacific Coast first.  We shall see!