I went to Granada, Nicaragua, after Popoyo. I expected very little. I had heard that the place was like a crappy version of Antigua, Guatemala. Not true! I think Granada has a completely different sort of charm. True, it's a colonial city, but that's where the similarities end. Granada's market is always teeming with people and wares. The colors come alive in the stalls and in the smiles of those working the stalls. They are eager to show you what they've got for sale, particularly if it's handmade or unique. There were people who sold fresh meats, fresh vegetables and fruit, handcrafted tunics and scarves, run-of-the-mill clothes, CDs, bicycle wheels and tires, electronics and hair products. Strangely, I got the sense that they really enjoyed making their livings in the market. In fact, some of the vendors left me with a sense that they are just one big family. Walking through the market is a unique experience, full of sounds and smells that only a market can bring.
The Parque Central in the center of town, like many other Central American cities, ties the place together in a grid of streets fanning out from the bustle of cab drivers, horse-drawn carriages, roadside foods, churches, bars, restaurants and cafes. I toured most of the churches in Granada and they are all beautiful, but the huge yellow church running along one side of the Parque is impossible to resist, with it's golden yellow facade, white trim, and large entrance casting grandiose shadows over the Parque. It's interior is light blue and beautifully adorned with artifacts and paintings. Another church nearby houses a museum boasting sculptures found in the area that date back to 300 A.D. Yet another church has a spectacular bell tower from which to watch the sun set over the surrounding hillsides and mountains.
Eventually, I decided to hunker down and take some more Spanish lessons. I stayed with a local family who were just lovely and gracious. Sadly, the son of the owner had spent considerable time in America and wanted to practice his English, so my "immersion" experience wasn't quite as high as I would've hoped. Nonetheless, it was a great school and I learned quite a bit.
After Granada, I headed to Treehouse Poste Rojo, a treehouse hostel in the jungle about 10 km outside Granada. I intended to stay for two weeks, but that quickly turned into nearly a month. I worked there (I volunteered in exchange for a place to stay and discounted meals). It was good down time and I indulged my creative side by painting signs and "decorating" the place with odd art. I generally checked people in and out of their stays, served food and drinks, and got to meet lots of amazing people. The treehouse is actually several buildings built into the Nicaraguan jungle: a treehouse room available for renting, a couple casitas (small houses) available for rent, a dorm building that also has private rooms, a bar and communal area and the volunteer house. The toilets were compost toilets in little shacks. The showers -- cold water only -- were outside with fencing around them to shield bathers from prying eyes. The critters were amazing and unique. I swear that I think I'm over my previous fear of spiders; I kinda had to since I went to sleep with them in my room almost every night. The howler monkeys in the surrounding jungle came to our trees for food and sometimes woke me up in the morning with their loud howling that made me think that there were gorillas nearby, not the relatively small howler monkeys. The sunsets were always amazing and I watched every one of them.
I know without hesitation that some of the friendships I made at the treehouse will be lifetime friendships! I also got some time to write and work on my book, which was a nice treat in the middle of all my travels (it's hard to find time to write when I'm always on the go). We had an amazing Christmas Eve celebration, complete with fireworks and a Hello Kitty pinata (LOL). We also had a family Christmas dinner with turkey and all the fixings. So good! On the 28th of December, the treehouse hosted a full moon party -- a pajama party. Good times! I decided to stay for New Years and rang in the New Year with some of my new treehouse family and our guests. It was nice to at least celebrate with some people with whom I'd shared the last couple of weeks. :)
I left the treehouse on January 2nd, headed for Costa Rica. The border crossing was (thankfully) uneventful and easy. I managed to make it all the way to Tamarindo in about six hours of bus rides. I met some fellow travelers on the bus and found a decent, nondescript hostel. The next day I found the Fiesta Bowl showing at a local bar/restaurant and sat down to cheer on my Ducks! Yay! Win and a good game! During the game, I met some Americans vacationing down here who have been absolutely amazing and are teaching me to surf and letting me stay in their huge rental house. It's been a little slice of heaven: hot showers for the first time in months, no tarantulas or other odd creatures, WiFi and some good old-fashioned relaxation time at the beach. I am very thankful and feel very blessed. I will move on from Tamarindo on Wednesday or so...I have my sights set on Monteverde and Santa Elena, but I may check out other areas of the Pacific Coast first. We shall see!
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